Sunday morning: early rise @ 4am, then 6 am flight Amsterdam-Arrecife. Easy car rental, and we head southward to Playa Blanca where we have the first stay.
After lunch easy and beautiful walk along the coast line, alternating beaches and rocks, to Playa Papagayo.
Monday we figure out diving and walking options and head to Timanfaya, the island’s tourist magnet, and for a good reason. The bus tour, even though we have to stay inside, is amazing and the number of calderas is stunning. The tricks with the geysers, burning wood and hot soil are clearly one in a row, but still impressive.
Walk along the coast through the lava. Fresh fish for dinner concludes the day.
Tuesday: early rise and to La Geria, the islands wine region, producing great wine that we already approved at last nights dinner. Nice hike around and on an old caldera (crater).
The omnipresent stone circles contain, surprisingly, the wine trees.
Wednesday: diving day! Morning session to Museo Atlantico, the underwater museum of Jason de Caires Taylor. Impressive and very topical, with statues of Lampedusa refugees. See lifegate.com.
The afternoon dive at Flamingo wall is beautiful, with big schools of fish, reefsharks, groupers, and many more. In the evening arrival at Haria in an old house partially rented out via Airbnb. Nice tapas dinner in Puerta Verde.
Thursday is surfing day. Back on the hairpin road with views on Haria and towards Caleta de Famara.
After board and wetsuit rental it’s time for wave riding, which Lisa succeeds at; Ben gets some lessons from an instructor who sees him suffer. The scene: a continuous wave train feeding the hungry surfers, set against the breathtaking cliffs just a stone throw away.
After being tormented for some hours, back in the car with trembling arms. Teguise is the coffee stop for today, a delightful town with streets flooding in warm sun light.
We continue to the north, passing by a small wind park, and arriving at Mirador del Rio. Great views on Isla Graciosa, our home for the next days.
Friday morning. Sad to leave the beautiful apartment in Haria. We set out for a hike towards the cliffs.
We pass by some goat farms, but they are deserted. Upon arrival at the cliff, fantastic views towards Famara and Isla Graciosa, at least as good as from the Mirador. And no single human being on the path so far.
We go off track on a steep climb and then meet three man cutting mushrooms on the slopes. Afternoon trips to the Cueva de los Verdes and the Jameo del Agua, both consequence of a 7 km cave system created by solidified lava flows. The number of tourists sharply contrasts with this morning’s hike. But, the artist Cesar Manrique has created a small paradise including restaurant and auditorium. As we continue to Orzola the Sahara wind colors the sky brownish. Arrival at Isla Graciosa, with a warm welcome by Steve, whose sail yacht is our house for the next 2 nights.
Saturday starts rainy, and more rain is promised. We leave anyway for a hike around the north of the island, after visiting the panaderia for bread and the ferreteria for everything else you might possibly need (ponchos and the like).
Weather improves during the hike, and after having passed the tiny village of Pedro Barba we walk again in solitude for several hours. The great lava show has taken place here, too, and the white sands strongly contrast with the black stones. After 12 km the stunning Playa de las Conchas (shell beach). At 18 km back in town, tired legs and well deserved beer in the hamburger bar where El Classico is on display. Great cheering when Real scores last minute equalizer. A boat deck shower, a chat with Steve, and fajitas with salsa for dinner end our last day.
Sunday travel day. Ferry at 8, car in Orzola and easy ride to Arrecife. We have a hitchhiker from Germany who is very happy to join us. The second day with rain is the island’s message that its time to go home.